Buenos Aires - EAT!
I know that everyone thinks of steak when Argentinian cuisine comes to mind, but there is so much more to it than that. There is a lot of meat though! Just sitting here thinking about the variety of food we had in Buenos Aires makes my mouth water! I can recall Argentinian-style pizza, the classic steak, an 11 course meal that almost did us in, a classic Italian restaurant on our first night, and oh my, they eat LATE. While we were falling asleep at dinner our first night (we arrived in BA in the evening and probably didn’t make it out to dinner until 9:30), the rest of the restaurant’s patrons were having a lively conversation.
My favorite restaurants or memorable meals from Buenos Aires are…
San Telmo Market - A market for everything! Lindsey and I bought some churros here, shopped for things (I bought a poncho, a candle, and perfume, all locally made), and stopped for a beer! We enjoyed this market, you can buy almost anything. I had fun looking through all of the antique stalls and bought some cute lapel pins here as well, two for me and one for a friend. This market is pretty famous for shopping and for its food stalls - and it is indoors! We had a bit of extra time to kill while shopping here before going to the Casa Rosada and enjoyed the beer at a stall where the cook was singing and dancing along to everything on the radio and it was extremely entertaining.
Tegui - I debated making this its own post, I’m still debating it. Tegui is one of the world’s 50 best restaurants. It had a set 11 course menu, which was the longest meal I’ve ever eaten at a restaurant but also really amazing and affordable for such a famous restaurant - compared to a similar restaurant in the United States. The food was amazing, no photos are allowed inside and it is in a really fun neighborhood in Buenos Aires (Palermo) that I wanted to go back to and we managed to do that on our last full day. Bottom line, we ate some interesting and unique food, drank some delicious wine with every course (omg I had to start sipping and not finishing glasses after the fourth course), we sat down at 8 and didn’t leave until after midnight, and it was one of the best meals I’ve ever had in my life. We ate some bird that is like an ostrich, prepared tartar style. We ate a chicken leg with the talon still on it, we had some amazing soup. GO. But make a reservation. This place is very chic and modern and the ambiance was great. The staff were all really good looking too. ;)
Guerrin - Argentinian style pizza! We didn't know what to expect, but you can buy pizza by the slice and it was so yummy! When is pizza not yummy? I appreciate how every country and city does pizza differently. The local specialty is fugazza - pizza covered with onions and does not usually have cheese or tomato sauce. We did not try that one but I encourage someone to do that and report back. We also drank a massive beer here that was about $1.20 US and it is pictured below. This place was hopping at a weird hour but also has a take away line. I have a feeling it is always busy but we were seated rather quickly. Highly recommended.
Don Julio - Our lovely waitress at Tegui asked us where we’d eaten and did we want recommendations (YES!). Seriously, this is my new approach to meeting travelers in my own city. She recommended Don Julio because locals enjoy it and it is a traditional Argentinian Parrilla, meaning STEAK. So, steak isn’t usually my thing, I’d rather have a burger. I know that’s tacky and I’m okay with it. But, when in Rome, ya know? We arrived after the Eva Peron museum (oh man, I’ll talk about that later) and had to wait a bit at about 2 in the afternoon, but the hostess kept the 20-30 people waiting outside happy with sparkling wine and heaters. It was not a super cold day but the heaters and the sun were nice and kept us comfy and happy. Once inside, Lindsey and I both ordered steaks and a bottle of wine and sides. I made sure to eat some vegetables and there was so much meat I could not finish it all but it was delicious! I am glad that I tried it.
Growlers - A beer bar in Palermo! I saw this place when we rode by in an Uber. Actually, I saw this place and about 20 other craft beer bars in Palermo - now you know why I wanted to return to that neighborhood - and we managed to squeeze it in on our last full day. We ordered burgers and we each drank two local and interesting beers. Buenos Aires catered to all of my saison, IPA, sour, and session beer needs and I was appreciative after being a teeny bit bored with the beers in Chile. They had a lot of choices here. I chatted with the bartender briefly in Spanish and was happy to learn that all of the beers on tap were from Buenos Aires or the local region. This place is probably really fun on weekend nights as they have a rooftop and festivities seem to spill out on to the street. I want to go back!
Buller Pub - After a morning spent wandering the Recoleta cemetery (more on that later as well, promise!) we were cold and hungry and wanted to find a place to scarf down some food and drink some beers (me). I am so glad that Lindsey is okay with my beer-loving ways since she is more of a wine drinker. The space was huge and inviting and had a fun vibe. I had a sampler of beers here, and liked them all! I enjoyed the honey ale and their stout the most though. The food was good and nothing super memorable but I’d recommend this place.
We ate every breakfast at our hotel, the Park Hyatt. They had delicious, local choices and it was included and we had a hard time rolling out of bed and getting going every day at the end of the trip, thus, the hotel was a good place to eat breakfast!
Photos: San Telmo Market, Lindsey enjoying her churro and beer at San Telmo, me with my giant beer at Guerrin, the outside of Guerrin, Posing outside of Don Julio after our meal, my plate at Don Julio, Lindsey excited to eat her steak at Don Julio, part of Growler’s delicious list of beers that made it hard to decide.